The Second Trip
Where to Stay in Hokkaido
Fly from Tokyo (90 min) or take the Shinkansen to Hakodate and connect from there. Sapporo is your hub. The JR Hokkaido Rail Pass covers trains between the main cities, but Hokkaido is big enough that the rail network doesn't reach everything. Budget at least 5 days, a week if you're going beyond Sapporo and Hakodate. Business hotels in Sapporo start around ¥7,000/night.
This doesn't look like the rest of Japan. Wide farmland, dairy cattle, lavender fields in summer, ski slopes buried in powder all winter. The food runs on seafood and dairy: morning market donburi, miso ramen, soft-serve from farms along the road. Outside the main cities, rent a car. Trains connect Sapporo, Otaru, and Hakodate, but Furano, Biei, and Niseko are easier by road.