Food 6 min read

Sapporo Food Guide: Ramen, Crab, Soup Curry and More

Soup curry is the one you did not plan for. It ends up being the meal you remember.

Top Dish

Miso ramen

Surprise Hit

Soup curry

Food Budget

¥3,000–5,000/day

Best Area

Susukino

Insider Tips

  • Sapporo invented miso ramen. Eat it here, not in Tokyo. The hometown version is richer, with a heavier broth and butter or corn on top.
  • Soup curry is not watered-down curry. It is a spiced, brothy soup with large vegetables and chicken, and it was created in Sapporo. Try it even if you think you know Japanese curry.
  • Crab and uni cost significantly less in Sapporo than in Tokyo for comparable quality. This is where you eat the expensive seafood.
  • Jingisukan (grilled lamb) is the social meal. The all-you-can-eat version at the Sapporo Beer Garden pairs with all-you-can-drink draft beer.
  • If you are basing in Sapporo, take the train to Otaru for a half day. The sushi there uses fish that came off the boat hours earlier.

Sapporo is the best food city in Hokkaido and one of the main reasons people fly up from the mainland. The food here is different from the rest of Japan because Hokkaido itself is different: colder waters, dairy farming, sheep ranching, and a climate that pushed the cuisine toward richer, heavier flavors. Everything you eat in Sapporo tastes like it was built for winter, even in summer. If you are planning a Hokkaido trip, the food alone justifies the flight.

What are the five dishes to eat in Sapporo?

Five things define Sapporo's food identity. You can eat all of them in two to three days without repeating a meal.

Dish What It Is Price Range Where
Miso ramen Rich miso broth, often with butter and corn ¥900–1,200 Susukino, station area
Soup curry Spiced broth with large vegetables and chicken ¥1,300–1,800 Citywide
Jingisukan Grilled lamb on a dome-shaped grill ¥3,600–4,000 (all-you-can-eat) Beer Garden, Susukino
Crab & seafood King crab, uni, kaisen donburi (seafood rice bowl) ¥1,500–5,000+ Nijo Market, Susukino
Hokkaido dairy Soft cream, milk, cheese, melon desserts ¥300–500 Everywhere

Miso ramen was invented in Sapporo, and the local version is heavier than what you get at Sapporo-style shops in Tokyo. The broth is rich, sometimes almost thick, with a layer of lard or butter on top that keeps it hot in the cold. Corn and butter are common toppings, which sounds strange until you try it. A bowl runs ¥900 to ¥1,200 and you will eat at least two during your stay.

Soup curry is the dish most people do not expect. It looks like a curry-flavored soup, and that is exactly what it is: a thin, spiced broth loaded with large chunks of vegetables (potato, carrot, eggplant, pepper) and a piece of chicken or pork. It was created in Sapporo in 1971 and has no real equivalent anywhere else in Japan. The gap between expectation and reality is enormous. Most people who try it for the first time come back for a second bowl before they leave the city. A serving costs ¥1,300 to ¥1,800 and you choose your spice level.

Jingisukan is Sapporo's social meal. Named after Genghis Khan, it is lamb or mutton grilled on a dome-shaped metal plate at your table, with vegetables cooking in the drippings around the edges. The all-you-can-eat version at the Sapporo Beer Garden pairs it with all-you-can-drink draft beer for around ¥3,600 to ¥4,000 per person, and the combination is exactly as good as it sounds. This is the meal you do with a group.

Seafood is why Hokkaido's food costs less than Tokyo's for better quality. The fish and shellfish come from the cold waters off the island rather than being shipped from a distant market. King crab, hairy crab, uni, scallops, and ikura all cost significantly less in Sapporo, and a kaisen donburi (a rice bowl piled with raw seafood) at Nijo Market runs ¥1,500 to ¥3,000 for a generous portion. The same bowl in Tsukiji or Toyosu costs more for seafood that traveled further to reach you.

Hokkaido dairy shows up everywhere and you do not need to seek it out. The soft cream (soft serve ice cream) is richer than what you get on the mainland because the milk is different. Melon-flavored soft cream, fresh Yubari melon, and Hokkaido cheese appear in convenience stores, department store food halls, and roadside stands. Budget ¥300 to ¥500 for a soft cream cone and do not resist.

Where do you eat in Sapporo?

Susukino is the eating and drinking district south of Odori Park, reachable by subway from Sapporo Station in about five minutes. The concentration of ramen shops, izakaya, jingisukan restaurants, and bars makes it the default dinner neighborhood. If you are staying near Sapporo Station, the subway ride is short enough that you will eat in Susukino most nights.

Nijo Market is a small covered market a few blocks east of Odori Park. It opens early and serves breakfast-weight kaisen donburi, grilled crab legs, and uni. The market targets tourists, so prices are not rock-bottom, but the seafood is fresh and you can eat a full seafood breakfast for ¥2,000 to ¥3,000. Go before 10 AM when the crowds are thinner.

The Sapporo Beer Garden is northeast of the station in a red brick building that used to be a brewery. The jingisukan all-you-can-eat here is the standard experience. It is touristy, it is loud, and the lamb is good. Some people book the Asahi Brewery tour first (free, with free beer at the end) and walk to the Beer Garden for dinner.

Near Sapporo Station, the department store basements (depachika) have some of the best prepared food in the city. There is also a ramen floor on the upper levels of one of the station buildings with multiple Hokkaido ramen shops in one place. This is more convenient than Ramen Alley near Susukino, which has a reputation for being touristy and overpriced. The best miso ramen in Sapporo is not in Ramen Alley.

What about Otaru?

Otaru is about 35 minutes from Sapporo by JR train and the sushi there is a step above what you find in the city. The fish comes directly from the port, and the sushi streets near the canal have a density of sushi shops that rivals any neighborhood in Japan. If you are taking the Hokkaido train route, Otaru fits as a half-day food trip from Sapporo. Eat sushi for lunch and walk the canal before heading back.

How much does a day of eating cost?

A full day of eating in Sapporo runs ¥3,000 to ¥5,000 if you balance markets and sit-down meals. Ramen for lunch (¥1,000), soup curry for dinner (¥1,400), and a couple of soft cream cones and market snacks in between keeps you under ¥4,000. The expensive meal is crab. A proper crab dinner with king crab or hairy crab runs ¥5,000 to ¥15,000 depending on how much crab you order. Even at the high end, comparable crab in Tokyo costs noticeably more. The jingisukan all-you-can-eat at ¥3,600 to ¥4,000 is the best value big meal in the city.

What should you skip?

Ramen Alley (Ramen Yokocho) near Susukino gets the most attention but mixed results. It is a narrow lane of small ramen shops that has been around since the 1950s, and some people enjoy the atmosphere. But the best miso ramen in Sapporo is not there. The shops near the station and scattered through Susukino are where you find the bowls worth talking about. If you go to Ramen Alley, go for the atmosphere, not expecting the best ramen of the trip.

Watch for crab restaurants near Susukino that station touts on the sidewalk. The ones that need to recruit you from the street are usually not the ones worth your money. Nijo Market has some stalls that price aggressively for tourists too, so check prices before committing to a crab leg or uni tray at the first stall you see. A quick walk through the whole market before buying anything saves you from the markup.

Sapporo Beer Garden or just beer?

The Sapporo Beer Museum is free to walk through on your own, and the tasting room sells flights of the classic, the black label, and seasonal brews for a few hundred yen each. A guided Premium Tour costs ¥1,000 and includes a tasting. The Beer Garden next door is the jingisukan spot. Some people combine the Asahi Brewery tour (also free, also with complimentary beer) in the morning with the Beer Garden for dinner and call it the best day of the trip. Hokkaido also produces good whisky at the Nikka distillery in Yoichi, about 75 minutes from Sapporo, if you want to make a day of it. Between Sapporo Beer, Asahi, and Nikka, Hokkaido has a drinking itinerary that could fill two days on its own.

This article is part of our Hokkaido guide

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